Wind and gravity can create waves! These waves are normally form near the shore. Take a look at the steps below!
1.) Wind blows across water and creates a disturbance. (Don't know what a disturbance is? Check out the basics here). The water starts to move. Wind speed, duration, and fetch (the distance the wind blows across) are all really important during this step!
2.) The water starts to move in a rolling or wavy shape.
3.) The bottom part of the wave drags across the bottom of the ocean and starts to slow down.
4.) The top of the wave doesn't change speed, so it just keeps going. This makes the top move much faster than the bottom.
5.) The top of the wave starts to fall forward and it creates the shape of a breaking wave that we all know from days at the beach.
2.) The water starts to move in a rolling or wavy shape.
3.) The bottom part of the wave drags across the bottom of the ocean and starts to slow down.
4.) The top of the wave doesn't change speed, so it just keeps going. This makes the top move much faster than the bottom.
5.) The top of the wave starts to fall forward and it creates the shape of a breaking wave that we all know from days at the beach.
And that's pretty much it! Continue to learn more about tidal waves by clicking here!